About Me

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Here I am in Peace Corps Guatemala... I would like to share my experiences with those back home and elsewhere with this online journal. Please post comments and question if you have any. Any mail can be sent to: Grace Hansen PCV Cuerpo de Paz Apartado Postal 33 Chimaltenango, Chimaltenango, 4001 Guatemala, Centro América Or I can be reached by telephone: 011.502.5384.4287 or skype: grace.anna ¡Besos!

Monday, April 11, 2011

¡Feliz Cumpleaños!

First of all, false alarm on the chicken killing... I guess they decided it would be easier to just buy the meat this time but they have assured me that someday soon, I will learn the secrets of chicken execution.

Meanwhile...
Here are some photos and videos from the birthday party this weekend. Miriam just turned 7 years old on Wednesday and her little brother Juan José turned 1 year old on Thursday. The party was Saturday and it was a great time! Piñatas never get boring for me...
 Here we have Miriam taking the first swings at the piñata...

Mid-piñata destruction.

 
Abuelita (grandma) kills the piñata.

 












Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Vida

8:52 am and I estimate that it is about 95º outside... Luckily there is a light breeze that picks up every now and then which helps to dry a bit of the sweat off your brow.
-But because it has been so dry in these past few months, the streets are covered in a fine dust. I don't mean fine like, "damn, you fine," but rather a dust as light as sifted flour which when disturbed by the slightest gust of wind, whirls up and covers all surrounding surfaces.
A sweaty face is the perfect place for this dust to settle and many of us walk around the Aldea sporting a grey sweatstache (dusty mustache). The dust settles on houses, chuchos, cars, and dishes sitting in the pila. If left untouched for long enough, the dust could resemble a light, early winter snowfall...

Life is going well and the days are passing quickly. Work has been slow-going but I am feeling optimistic about the months ahead. The women's group has been going especially well and this week the woman have offered to teach me one of their most traditional recipes, Pulike. This dish is a delicious orange soup made with chicken and cilantro and served with tamalitos. This afternoon I will learn every step in the preparation of Pulike, including the killing of a chicken.
yikes.
I think it is only fair that I learn to kill at least one chicken here in Guatemala. Since here, I have been eating chicken and it seems only right to fully understand where that drumstick comes from. In the US we never think about our meat as an actual living animal, and once packaged and put on supermarket shelves consumers see only a steak, a roast, a pork chop, or a chicken breast. I think it is good to take responsibility for ourselves and the food we choose to eat and that is why I have agreed to kill a chicken.

Perhaps after this experience, I will no longer want to eat chickens but I doubt it. I don't mind eating chickens here in the campo as much as I do when I am at home. Factory farms leave a bad taste in my mouth and I don't like to be so disconnected and uncertain about what I am eating.

Here the chickens are running around everywhere. When they first hatch they are so cute... Little bundles of feathers running around, clearly confused by their new world. Then they grow up and they are ugly with a capital U. Their feathers grow in all patchy and weird with speckles and bald spots galore. They get into everything... wander into my room and crap on the floor. -And don't even get me started on the roosters... It is a myth that they only crow at the crack of dawn. They crow at the crack of everything. For the most part, I have learned to tune them out, but sometimes they seem to join together in such a loud chorus that I wish to turn them all into chicken McNuggets.
-I dislike chickens, but this is not why I eat them here in Guatemala.

I will be sure to post the vivid details of the chicken sacrifice of this afternoon.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

A New Look

You are probably asking yourself how in the world I was able to hire a web designer to amp up this page with my meager Peace Corps salary...
Well I did not hire an MIT web designer, nor any web designer. This beautiful piece of cyber art is thanks to my own creative and technological genius.
Actually it was pretty simple... The website sets it up so just about anyone can make a very flashy page. It's just that I am not quite up to speed with all of these modern cyber luxuries.
I thought the map of Guatemala might be useful because then the folks at home can get a better idea of where I am. I live in the department of Chimaltenango, just to the west of Guatemala, it's the light purple patch on the map. If you look very closely you will see the Aldea in which I live (Estancia de la Virgen) and if you REALLY squint, you will see my house (the white one, -just there on the hill).

  I have also added a link to some headlines from Democracy Now! to the sidebar. This is the news that I listen to here and I have been so fascinated to hear all that has been going on in Egypt and the Middle East. If any of you lovely readers feels left in the dark about world news, I highly recommend giving this site a read or a listen. You may even find it a delightful side dish to your nightly helping of Glenn BLECK...
-I mean, Beck.

I will not make excuses for neglecting this page for so long. I haven't really been up to much in these past few weeks. I had a sprained ankle and was out of work for awhile and it has been a slow start to the new school year. This year is looking very promising however, and there is a lot in the works. I am planning on helping with some curriculum writing and project planning for our program which may not be so entertaining for you all to read about but it is certainly exciting for us here in Guatemala. Our program is forever changing and evolving and it is really great to be a part of that.

I am hoping to bring more of the arts and critical thinking to the kids here... I plan to do drawing, painting, creative writing, sculpture, music, theatre, and dance. I have some projects in mind; making musical insturments out of recycled materials, for example... The idea would be for each kid to find something they really enjoy in the arts, -something they feel accomplished in. Then maybe later on in the year we can have an Art Ehibition in which each student submits at least one work. The drawings, painting, sculptures we can put up on display and then the kids interested in performing arts can put together a few acts or numbers to perform live.
I think it would be a great way to boost kid's self-esteem and introduce them to the world of creative thinking. It would also be a nice event to bring the community together... I guess we'll see.

Please feel free to share with me any ideas you may have for projects, or activities I can do with the kids.
I really appreciate it!


Friday, January 28, 2011

Home

My cousin will be getting married on July 30, 2011. I was dying to go home for the wedding but it appeared there was a Peace Corps conference that might interfere and would cause me to miss the big day.

I wrote to my project specialist and told them the situation and the date of the conference magically changed to one week before. So now I can go to the wedding with no worries.

Oh wait! One worry.... How will I get home? Hmm. I could hitchhike through Mexico. What do you think Mom? Dad? I'm sure I'll be fine.
OR
I could try to tag along with a group of illegal immigrants crossing the border. Ever seen the movie, El Norte?
OR
I could ride my bike up... I'd better start now if I want to make it home for the wedding in July.

Gosh. None of these seem like very good options. None of them seem very safe, and Peace Corps teaches us ALWAYS to be safe.

Well I'm all out of ideas. IF anyone has ANY ideas for me, as to how I could possibly get home around (July 23/24 ish) Please leave a comment below...


suspencefully yours,
grace

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Feliz Navidad

Christmas turned out to be lovely even though I was a bit homesick. I spent a total of 5 hours at the Catholic church on Christmas eve. The service was as beautiful as it was long and I tried to listen to the whole things but had trouble understanding and paying attention to everything. There was a lot of kneeling, and crossing, and blessing, and praying and I think I stood out because I kept missing the cues.
Christmas Mass... lasted about 5 hours

Some could not make it the whole 5 hours... (see body on the floor between the standing women)


At the front of the church they had a nativity scene set up and at midnight everyone lines up to bow before baby Jesus and give him a kiss. One thing I did catch from the mass was the emphasis on the very humble beginnings of Jesus Christ. -How he was born in a dirty little manger, in the company of animals... How it must have been very cold and dreary that night. Most nativity scenes I have seen at home seem to do justice to this modest image of Christ's birth. Here though, the nativity scene was quite the opposite.
When I approached the scene, I immediately was thrown off by the ambiance of the place... It was less of a barn and more of a disco. The small building was adorned with flashing lights and colorful tinsel. If I knew nothing of Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, and this were my first brush with a nativity scene, I would probably assume that Joseph and Mary were into lavish parties, and that they had decided to welcome their new son into the world at the nicest discothèque in Jerusalem.
 
At midnight, everyone lined up to kiss the baby Jesus as he lay in his manger 
in what could have been the lobby of a Las Vegas hotel.
 
At midnight there was a gargantuan firework show which went on for at least 40 minutes. At the end of the mass everyone was embracing and wishing each other Merry Christmas. I was very happy to be a part of it all.
On Christmas day I watched the movie, Its a Wonderful Life, which I have in both black and white, and in color thanks to Helen :) It was perfect... although it reminded me even more of home it still warmed my heart. Later on Christmas day, I listened to some holiday music (my favorite song being Jingle Bells, sang by The Barking Dogs) -Thanks mom.
All in all it was a nice holiday and I hope everyone at home felt the same.

For New Years I headed to Antigua with some friends and stayed at the beautiful Earth Lodge. This place was amazing and it was incredibly tempting to drop everything and just go and live there. It is a small lodge on the top of a mountain overlooking Antigua. It faces 3 volcanoes and offers modest yet beautiful cabins and tree houses to rent at great prices. Every room has an incredible view over the valley and makes you feel like you are sleeping on top of the world.
On New Years eve we hiked Volcán Pacaya which is the volcano that recently erupted in May.

It was a amazing to see how much of the vegetation had already grown back and how quickly nature is able to renew itself.

The hike was not long but a good challenge as the ground was made up of volcanic ash and so with every step up, you slide back a few inches.

The views were spectacular and at the cone of the volcano we were greeted by a deserted wasteland. There was almost nothing growing at the top and as we hiked around the wide open slopes I was reminded of the huge bowls found at the tops of the great ski resorts. As we made our way down, it was difficult not to run because it was so steep and the ground was sliding out from beneath us. We cut quick traverses down and it actually felt a little like skiing. Aside from the slope being made up of hot black volcanic ash, it was very much like skiing those crunchy, cookie, ice chunks of the north-east.
The Tippy Top of the Volcano.

At the top, our guide brought our group over to some heat vents. There was a good-sized cave you could walk into and it felt just like a sauna. It was an incredible dry heat and you could feel the sweat evaporate immediately off your skin. The other heating vent he brought us to was above ground and as you approached it there was this intense hot wind that swept over your body. We had heard about these heat vents and came prepared with sticks and marshmallows. There was a crack in the ground about a foot wide and it was difficult to look down into it because it felt like your eyelashes might be seared off. Down in the crevasse I could make out a burning stick and red-hot and white hot rocks. We expertly prepared our marshmallows and lowered them down only a few inches into the crack. The marshmallows instantly began to bubble and turn brown. I timed how long it took for a perfect golden brown: 3 seconds. 3! It was amazing. The only thing was that because it was so hot and cooked it so quickly, the marshmallows were not actually cooked all the way through and so we would eat the outside then re-cook the gooey inside and eat it layer by layer until it was gone. They were the most delicious mallows I have ever eaten.

One guy we were with, whipped out a cheese sandwich and grilled it on a rock at the opening of the crevasse. He was nice enough to share, and it was scrumptious.
Volcano Grilled Cheese

After descending down the steep slopes, we headed back to the beautiful Earth Lodge and prepared to ring in the New Year. The evening was warm and clear and we sat in the lodge among travelers and folks from all over the world, eating a family-style dinner, and drinking margaritas. On the other side of the valley, Volcán de Fuego (Fire Volcano) spewed orange lava into the night sky. It seemed almost like a natural preview to the fireworks at midnight... When the clock struck 12, (or 0, depending) dozens of magnificent fireworks shows erupted throughout the valley below. It was one of the most spectacular New Year's I have ever spent...
View From the Tree Cabin at Earth Lodge.

The last few days of vacation passed quickly and I busied myself with planning and meetings with teachers and schools. I finally felt I was ready. I felt like I had all the teachers on board. And then, the weekend before classes were to begin, I fell and tore the ligaments in my ankle.
Don't bother asking how I did it. It's not a good story. But I am open to some more dramatic versions of how it could have happened so please post your ideas here. I have a "walking cast" but what I do is less of a walk and more of a totter. The cast makes my right leg much longer than the other and provides only a small surface area on which to balance, so walking on steep and rocky paths is very difficult. I think I should have asked for the all-terrain walking cast... I've only got 3 weeks to be in the cast, and hopefully I will find a transportation solution in the meantime.

Mes on Christmas Eve

That's all for now,
Be well.
Grace

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Packages!

I have recently had some inquiries about mailing packages... As always, I am overjoyed to recieve mail of any kind!

Some packages hav been rerouted through the Post Office in Guatemala City for security purposes which makes it difficult and expensive for me to pick them up... I was told that one way to avoid this is to write CUERPO DE PAZ in large letters under my name and the package will likely be sent to me with no problems.

So... My current mailing address is:



Grace Hansen: CUERPO DE PAZ
Apartado 33
Chimaltenango,
Chimaltenango, 4001
Guatemala, Centro América

Thanks to everyone and Happy Holidays!

Monday, December 27, 2010

Twas The Night Before Christmas

By Eduardo "Lalo Guerrero"

'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa,
Not a creature was stirring -- Caramba! Que pasa?
Los ninos were tucked away in their camas,
Some in camisas and some in pijamas,

While hanging the stockings with mucho cuidado
In hopes that old Santa would feel obligado
To bring all children, both buenos and malos,
A nice batch of dulces and other regalos.

Outside in the yard there arose such a grito
That I jumped to my feet like a frightened cabrito.
I ran to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world do you think quien era?

Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero.
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados
Were eight little burros approaching volados.

I watched as they came and this quaint little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre
"Ay Pancho, ay Pepe, ay Chucho, ay Beto,
Ay Chato, ay Chopo, Macuco, y Nieto!"

Then standing erect with his hands on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chiminea,

then huffing and puffing at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala,
He filled all the stockings with lovely regalos--
For none of the ninos had been very malos.

Then chuckling aloud, seeming very contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim, and this is verdad,
Merry Christmas to all, and Feliz Navidad!