Packages!

I have recently had some inquiries about mailing packages... As always, I am overjoyed to recieve mail of any kind!

Some packages hav been rerouted through the Post Office in Guatemala City for security purposes which makes it difficult and expensive for me to pick them up... I was told that one way to avoid this is to write CUERPO DE PAZ in large letters under my name and the package will likely be sent to me with no problems.

So... My current mailing address is:



Grace Hansen: CUERPO DE PAZ
Apartado 33
Chimaltenango,
Chimaltenango, 4001
Guatemala, Centro América

Thanks to everyone and Happy Holidays!

Twas The Night Before Christmas

By Eduardo "Lalo Guerrero"

'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the casa,
Not a creature was stirring -- Caramba! Que pasa?
Los ninos were tucked away in their camas,
Some in camisas and some in pijamas,

While hanging the stockings with mucho cuidado
In hopes that old Santa would feel obligado
To bring all children, both buenos and malos,
A nice batch of dulces and other regalos.

Outside in the yard there arose such a grito
That I jumped to my feet like a frightened cabrito.
I ran to the window and looked out afuera,
And who in the world do you think quien era?

Saint Nick in a sleigh and a big red sombrero
Came dashing along like a crazy bombero.
And pulling his sleigh instead of venados
Were eight little burros approaching volados.

I watched as they came and this quaint little hombre
Was shouting and whistling and calling by nombre
"Ay Pancho, ay Pepe, ay Chucho, ay Beto,
Ay Chato, ay Chopo, Macuco, y Nieto!"

Then standing erect with his hands on his pecho
He flew to the top of our very own techo.
With his round little belly like a bowl of jalea,
He struggled to squeeze down our old chiminea,

then huffing and puffing at last in our sala,
With soot smeared all over his red suit de gala,
He filled all the stockings with lovely regalos--
For none of the ninos had been very malos.

Then chuckling aloud, seeming very contento,
He turned like a flash and was gone like the viento.
And I heard him exclaim, and this is verdad,
Merry Christmas to all, and Feliz Navidad!

The Miracle of Death (don't worry, no photos included)

For Christmas my family decided to slaughter their pig. They got the pig as a tiny piglet just as I moved in so I have watched it grow and fatten over the past few months. A pig for Christmas is very special for them... Last night they told me they would be inviting the entire family over early in the morning to begin cooking and preparing to make tamales. While I couldn't help but feel for the doomed porker, I remained as culturally objective as possible on the matter and crawled into bed.
I had planned to go running early this morning but lazily hit the snooze button... Suddenly I was jolted awake by not my alarm, but rather the most horrifying sounds I have ever heard in my life. It sounded like BOSE surround-sound demons blaring around my head... I wrapped my pillow around my head as tightly as I could, and cupped my hands over my ears but it barely dulled the roar. Felix, our friendly neighbor was slaughtering the pig on the front lawn, just outside my window at 7am this morning. Needless to say it was an unpleasant wake-up call.
------- This one is a little unpleasant too so read on at your own risk--------

I don't know much about slaughtering animals but I would think it best to put the animal out of misery as soon as possible. I'm not sure what the standard methods are here in Guatemala but this pig screamed for an agonizing 5 minutes. My stomach twisted as I lay in bed hoping for the thing to just die already. Sometimes there would pass a few seconds of silence only for it to begin its wailing again... -Until finally the sound grew weaker and eventually sputtered out.
In the past year I had quit eating meat for a variety of reasons; health, environment, and for the animals sake. After this experience I am sure I will never touch another piece of pig meat in my life.

Every morning I let my kitty outside to play at about 5am because she switches from "sleep" mode to "annoy the shit out of Grace" mode. Today was no different and I thought about her out there in that war zone as the pig lay screaming and dying. After a few minutes of silence I decided to go out and look for her. There in the yard I saw the pig... dead on the table as Felix expertly shaved off its fur with a sharp knife. A second man was pouring hot water over the animal to soften the skin, and the water, hair, and blood dripped to the ground. - That's when I spotted my cat... She was poking around under the table, licking at little pools of pigs blood. She was smattered with water and blood and had clumps of the pig's wiry hair stuck to her paws and back. GROSS...

I grabbed her by the scruff of her neck and locked her in my room where she cried for about 10 minutes before she finally got some class and cleaned herself up. -Meanwhile, I decided I deserved a good strong cup of coffee. I grabbed my coffee maker and headed out to the pila (sink) to rinse it out. I grabbed the dish used to scoop up the water and as I lifted it, a warm liquid sloshed onto my hand. I peered into the dish and saw it was in fact full of pigs blood. It felt as if I might be in a horror film (for pigs)... For the rest of the morning I decided it would be best for Mes and I to stay in my room. Occasionally I would peer out the window to see if the blood-bath was over, only to be greeted by a clear view of the two men hacking up the pigs body. Eventually I had to leave my room and I did my best to avert my eyes but even in my peripheral vision, I could see the slow dismantling of the animal throughout the day...
--------------------------

This was a very special occasion for Yolanda and Rodolfo and I know they felt incredibly blessed to be able to share this feast with their family and friends. I made sure not express my discomfort in front of them and I was very polite when I declined the offer of fried pig skin... I am happy for them to have had such a bountiful feast this Christmas and feel lucky to be here sharing it with them (even if I am not actually sharing the food).

I also think it might be a good thing for everyone to witness or at least listen to an animal being slaughtered and then make a decision about eating that type of meat. I have seen chickens being slaughtered and I can still manage to eat them when necessary. It just seems fair...

Anyway, Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!

It's Not Beginning to Look A lot Like Christmas

more photos to come...

More than 2 months I have neglected this page and I apologize. Perhaps it helps that one of my New Years resolutions will be to keep with my writing?..
Since 2 months have passed, and so much has happened, I will try to give a quick recap.

Career Day!

Oct. 16, Career Day was a HUGE success. Nearly all of the kids showed up looking very snappy and most of the invited professionals from the city came to share the day with us. Peace Corps helped to transport people and the parents of the students provided a delicious lunch for our guests. The day was amazing and I think it had a big impact on not only the kids but the professionals as well. I hope we can recreate this event each year.

Presentations on Career Day.

Halloween Weekend, I traveled with some PC friends up to Cobán and Semuc Champey. It is a really beautiful part of the country and we hiked through the jungle, swam in the beautiful natural pools, and explored some pretty amazing caves.

The amazing natural pools of Semuc Champey.

Here in Guatemala it quickly becomes clear that liability insurance must not exist... The "cave tour" was spectacularly dangerous and exciting. We cashed in safety precautions for fun and adventure as we waded into a completely unlit cave with only a small candle in hand. The water began to get deeper as we waded into the dark water and it quickly rose above our heads. Hot wax dripped down our arms as we all struggled to kick and swim with only one arm. We were constantly kicking into sharp rocks as bats swooped at our heads. Many times the guide seemed to disappear up ahead or lag behind and it felt like we were left on our own. We climbed a rusty ladder up the side of waterfall (candle still in hand) and scaled along a steep ledge. The best part about this tour was that you felt like you were really exploring... and while it may have been a bit unsafe, it was quite thrilling.

Amazing views of Semuc.

After a wonderful weekend we packed our things for an early departure from Semuc on Monday morning. The van was waiting down below and so I slung my pack onto my back and reached down to pick up my other bag... As I lifted the bag I uncovered a huge hairy tarantula. Never in my life have I seen such a big, scary spider. It could have been the twin brother to the spider from the move Home Alone. I have been told that these spiders are not poisonous but I am sure they could easily provoke a fear-induced heart attack. We told the staff at the hostel about the spider and they said it was quite normal and they would send someone in to chop its head off with a machete.. We didn't stay to see that happen.

Terrifying.

Since school has ended I have been busy going to graduations and continuing with the women's group I inherited from Amanda. I also have started a sort of girls group with the younger kids. We meet every 2 weeks and do a different activity each week. So far we have done cooking, whiffle ball, and art projects. This week we will be dancing. It has been a lot of fun and a great way to get involved with the community.

Girls group with their art projects (plus Freddie, the little brother)

One day I was going for a run down to the river and some of the little girls asked to accompany me. I told them yes and incorporated a little lesson on the importance of stretching and exercise. The road to the river is all down hill and so the run back up is very hard. We walked most the way and the girls began picking flowers and saying things like, "okay I'm going to throw these flowers an whoever catches them will be the next to get married." The girl would throw the flowers backwards over her head and all the other little girls would run to catch them and I watched with amusement. This continued for most of the hike back up to town, "Whoever catches these flowers will have a very happy life," "Whoever catches these flowers will be a doctor," then one of the girls said, "Whoever catches these flowers will have 7 children" - I instinctually blurted, whoa no way! No sooner had the words left my lips, and I was pegged in the face with the bouquet of wildflowers... This whole time I had been nothing more than a spectator in the girls game but this time it seemed those damn flowers had sought me out. Hopefully it doesn't mean I will actually have 7 children. Kids are great, don't get me wrong, but 7 is just unnecessary.

In mid November I was invited to a graduation in the community and a lunch afterwards. It was really nice to be invited to an event in the community. After a delicious lunch I sat and chatted with the family and a small calico kitten made herself comfy on my lap. Normally I am not the biggest fan of cats but this little things was just so darn sweet. When it was time to go, the family insisted that I take the cat home with me... I was apprehensive but finally gave in. So now I have a kitten named Mes (which means Cat in Kaqchikel). She's a great cat and now that she has no more fleas it's even better. The best part is that since she spent the first 2 months of her life mostly outdoors, she doesn't need a litter box! I have had her over a month now and we are getting along famously.

Mes.

Nov. 21, My mom came to visit! We started the trip off in Antigua where we bargained our way through the artisan market and enjoyed some delicious food.

On Tuesday we took a shuttle to Lake Atitlán and spent 2 nights at a beautiful lakefront hotel tucked between two towering volcanoes. We went on an 11 mile horseback ride up to a beautiful spot with breath-taking views of the lake and pacific planes.

Horseback Riding.

On Thursday we returned to Estancia to prepare for the Thanksgiving dinner we would be hosting at my house on Friday. We made stuffing, green beans, garlic mashed potatoes, with cranberry sauce and pumpkin cookies. The women from the women's group made a big batch of Puliqué to share and invited their families to join. It was a lovely dinner and a nice way to celebrate Thanksgiving. My mom's visit was short but very nice and now she is back in NY and will be celebrating Christmas in her new home!

Just after my mom left I began working on a mural projects with the kids from Chi Don Juan. I had help from my friend and PCV Melissa who came to help and also from my friend Jenn, who I studied abroad with in Spain, and who happened to be traveling around Central America. The mural turned out to be a great success and the kids seemed really proud of their work.

Mixing paint.

Day 2...

The Final Result.

Dec. 7, Lily came to Guatemala! The past 2 months have been very busy and full of visitors which has really helped me through the holiday season. Lily arrived and we spent the first 2 nights in Antigua so she could see the sites and do some Christmas shopping. On Thursday we returned to my site and had to get ready for a Bible camp I was recruited to help with. The camp was being run by Mari, one the women from the women's group and she had solicited my help months ago. So the plan was to help with 3 days of bible camp and then head out on a jungle adventure to Petén.
Day 1 of Bible camp was lovely. They treated us to a delicious breakfast and huge home cooked lunch. We sang songs with the kids and played fútbol and it was a fun day. We got back to my house and Lily had the great idea of redecorating my room. We went to the hardware store and bought some paint and got started on the project. We finished painting only 1 wall before we sat down to dinner and later got ready for bed.
The next morning at 5am, I was awoken by an angry gurgling in my stomach... I tried to ignore it but it became more intense and I quickly ran to the bathroom.
---------------------
Disclaimer: This part of the story is not cute so read on at your own discretion.

Upon reaching the bathroom, I came to terms with the fact that I had finally gotten the dreaded stomach illness that had affected so many of my comrades here in Guatemala. As I sat, the pain in my belly grew more and more intense and I became unsure from which end my food would be evacuating.
I would have brief waves of foolishly thinking I could leave the bathroom but then within seconds I was running back to that cold dank toilet. At this point I had a bucket as well and I found that I had to sit with a bucket on my lap because I was so violently ill in "multiple directions." It felt like there was some angry traffic cop in my stomach blowing his whistle and yelling, "Ok I want everyone out of here NOW! Yesterdays lunch, you head south GO GO MOVE IT. Last night's dinner, split up, I want the tomatoes and carrots to head north, pasta, go south. This is not a drill! GO!" The exodus of my bowels was accompanied by the worst stomach ache I have ever experienced but thankfully it was all over in about 6 hours. At that point I was finally able to lie down on the hammock and sleep.
Unfortunately, as soon as I began to feel better, Lily began running to the bathroom... She spent the afternoon with similar ailments although hers seemed a little less intense but instead her sickness seemed to last much longer. By Monday she was feeling well enough to travel but still had diarrhea... We decided to try to make it Cobán anyway and headed out on the bus at 6am.
----------------------------
As our extremely overcrowded bus passed through San Lucas, it became clear that we would not be able to stop there... As it turned out, there were protesters blocking the road and the bus was rerouted through another part of Guatemala City (a part PCV are not allowed to be...) A 15 min bus ride turned into 3 hours. I fought my way to the front of the bus and asked when we would be arriving at Mira Flores in Guatemala City (where we needed to get off). The driver told me that because of the reroute we would no longer be going to that stop and I should just get off here and get a taxi. Lily was a few rows back and I told her we would be getting off. The ayudante (bus drivers assistant) took our pack from the front of the bus and got off with it. He waited to for me to get off and then handed it to me. I told him, "Please just wait because my friend is getting off too." It looked like he was waiting for her but then suddenly the bus began to lurch forward and he hopped back on. I was left on the side of the road somewhere in Guatemala City, in a cloud of exhaust as the bus drove away with Lily still on board. My chest started to feel tight but I tried to stay calm. Lily speaks little Spanish, has no phone, and no knowledge of the city. I began to walk in the direction of the bus and tried to stay positive but my eyes were getting blurry with tears as I came to a fork in the road and had no idea which way I should go. Suddenly I heard someone calling my name and I spotted Lily on the other side of the road. I ran over to her and broke into sobs. Thankfully, a woman on the bus had seen what had happened and helped Lily to get off at the next stop and look for me. We had the great fortune of running into only the most kind and helpful people... They helped us figure out where the hell we were and we called for a ride out of there.
By the time we were "rescued" it was lunch time and Lily was still feeling sick so we opted to postpone our travels and ultimately we decided to change our itinerary and go to the beach which was much closer.
We arrived in Monterico and stayed in an amazing room with a private balcony overlooking the beach and crashing waves. We relaxed for a few days, watched the release of some baby sea turtles, and went on a sunrise rowboat tour of the mangrove forest. By the time the weekend rolled around, some friends came to the beach to meet us and we all had a great time. While we didn't get to see as many places as we would have liked, we had a lovely and relaxing time together.

It was sad to see Lily go and now all my pre-holiday excitement has died down. I am looking forward to Christmas here in the Aldea but I can't help but think of everyone back home. I feel a little more bummed than I expected... I sort of thought that watching Christmas movies and listening to holiday music would cheer me up but that wasn't the case. I'm sure it will be a really wonderful Christmas here and I hope all of you reading this will enjoy the snow, and time with family and friends. I'll keep reminding myself of how special it is to be part of a different culture and celebrating in a new way.

In the words of José Feliciano:
¡Feliz Navidad, Prospero Año y Felicidad!

... Career Day Countdown

Today I experienced another miscommunication and yet this time I find it very difficult to bring any sort of humor to the situation...

As I have written, I am planning a Career Day and now we are only 2 days away from the big event. I am frantically trying to keep calm and manage the last few items before Saturday. I am meeting with my students for the very last time before C-day to give them last minute updates and see if they have any questions or concerns.

Well today I went to one of my schools and was confronted by a most unpleasant situation.
From the beginning I had asked that all students make an effort to find "professional" clothing (Slacks or skirt, and a button-up shirt). I told them these clothes could be purchased at the second hand store, or borrowed from a friend or relative, and I even went as far as to purchase some clothes and lend them out to the kids. Up to this point all the kids have been fine if not excited about the clothes they would be wearing for Career Day.
I had asked that the kids bring in their clothes this week so that we can make sure everything fits okay before the actual day.
When I arrived at this one school this morning, I came lugging a big bag of clothes to lend out if needed. I walked into the Tercero classroom, and the teacher followed me in and curtly said, "These students will not be attending Career Day because they don't have permission from their parents."
This seemed pretty shocking to me since we have been planning this event for the past 2 months and this is the first I was hearing that the students could not attend. I addressed the class and said, "When did you guys tell your parents about this event? I have been coming here every week for 2 months planning this with all of you..."
I had a feeling there was more to the story... Then finally the teacher told me it was because the kids had nothing to wear.
"You cannot ask these kids to go out and buy brand new suits to come to your Career Day." she scolded.
Clearly there had been a misunderstanding.
"I never asked them to buy brand new clothes. I told them they could borrow them or whatever was needed" I said calmly. "Look, I even brought clothes of my own for them to use" I said as I hoisted up the bag.
"The kids are not comfortable in those kinds of clothes," she said. "And you should not ask them to wear something they are not comfortable in."
Again, this was the first I was hearing about these clothing issues and I was a little peeved to be hearing about just 3 days before Career Day.
"Look, the professional clothes were only a suggestion. I would really like these kids to attend and it doesn't matter what they wear." I contended.
"Well we'll see... I just don't like that you are trying to tell them that they have to wear something they are not comfortable wearing," she admonished again.
"They can wear whatever they like," I said.
The teacher then had a semi-private conversation with the students and I was left trying to sort out my confusion. I figured it must have been about suggesting the girls wear non-traditional clothes. Sometimes the girls wear the Mayan corte and guipil but sometimes they wear jeans and t-shirt. Upon my first suggestion of wearing professional clothes, there seemed to be no qualms so what was this all about?
Finally the teacher said, "Okay, they will come but the girls will wear corte and the boys will wear their street clothes (jeans and t-shirt)."
I agreed but still felt very confused. I understand about one wanting to maintain their cultural identity and therefore the corte and guipil are perfectly acceptable. But this teacher was also advocating that the boys should be allowed to wear their street clothes... It could be about money, but this is the only school out of four that seems to have a problem. Also, 99% of these folks go to church every weekend and wear their Sunday best which is pretty much exactly the get-up I was suggesting for Career Day. On top of that, I was even offering to lend the clothes out...
After the strange episode I made a point to go up to both of the teachers and apologize. I told them that I was never demanding the kids wear these clothes and that if they had a problem they could have told me at any time.
At that moment, one of the teachers launched into a long lecture about how Guatemala has many cultures and each person has a right to express themselves as they wish. He told me that there are also laws protecting the rights of indigenous people to wear their traditional attire.
It seemed like nothing I said was getting through to them. To them, I had blatantly disrespected the kids' culture by denying them the right to wear their traditional clothes.
I tried to defend myself by saying that I had a great deal of respect for the culture but again my rebuttal seemed to fall on dead ears.

-Just as a side note, jeans and t-shirt are no more Mayan then a McDonalds hamburger so I still cannot see how the teachers justified their advocacy in that department...

I left the school feeling pretty dejected. The student agreed to come but somehow I am left with the feeling that they will not. I also feel like I have lost a great deal of respect in that school and maybe even the community. Whether just a miscommunication or not, the last thing I ever want to be is culturally insensitive. I never want to make people feel like they need to change in order for me to help them... Somehow, without knowledge or intention, I conveyed that message and I imagine it will take a lot of work to reverse it.

I guess I have learned a valuable lesson through all this which will definitely help me in the next 2 years. I must always be careful about what I say and do here. I must be very conscious of what I ask of people and their feelings and beliefs. I guess it was a good thing for me to learn, I only regret having lost face in the process...

On a more positive note: Career Day is in only 2 days and (most) everything is falling into place. We have nearly 20 professionals who have confirmed and the kids seem very excited. I will share the stories of the day and some photos as soon as I can...

Perhaps Mother Nature has PMS?

It is the rainy season here in Guatemala from about May-November and so a bit of rain was to be expected. It was not however, expected to rain quite so much. Mother nature seems to be getting a little whacky and I feel like telling her to take some Midol, eat some chocolate, and just calm down!
We started the season off with Tropical Storm Agatha which left everything pretty much inundated with water. After that, we had a number of sporadic rain storms that have left homes and villages flooded.
Once I arrived here at my site there had been quite a few of these heavy rains. They usually last a day or two and being that we are on a mountain, the waters just flows down like a river. During one of these rain storms we heard the neighbor across the way crying and yelling. Yolanda and Rodolfo went over to see what was going on and they found the woman's house was full of mud. The back wall of her home, which was pegged up against a hill had simply gave way and in came the mud and rocks from the mountain. The woman was devastated and cried as she surveyed the few of her belongings buried in mud.

Here are some photos of the nieghbors house... it should be noted that hers was probably not as well constructed nor sturdy as our house.

After this rain storm, Yolanda noticed water entering into the kitchen in our house through the wall. (Our house is 3 rooms in a row, mine in the middle, with the kitchen on one side and the family's bedroom on the other). The house is situated much like the one across the road, with one side of the house pegged against the hill. As the rainy season persisted, the water continued to seep in through the back wall of the kitchen. One evening as I was crawling into bed I noticed that all my pillows were wet. I looked at the wall to see that water had been seeping in there too and because my bed had been pushed up against it, the pillows had absorbed the water. I moved my bed away from the wall and called up Peace Corps. While it wasn't a lot of water, I still felt nervous because of the woman's home across the way. A few days later my boss came out to survey the house and said it was safe and sound and there was nothing to worry about. A few weeks passed and I soon forgot about the issue and moved my bed back to it's place against the wall.

Then.
Just last night...

I was just about to settle onto my bed to watch a movie. It was a chilly and rainy night and it seemed like curling up to watch a movie was just the thing to do. Just then I looked up and noticed wet spots on the walls. The water was collecting on the wall like beads of sweat and then dripping to the floor. I called Yolanda and Rodolfo's attention to it and they said it was nothing to worry about and suggested I just pull the bed away from the wall so it doesn't get wet.
I believed them.
They had told me, "It's not serious. Nothing serious will happen, if God doesn't want it to."
But what if God does want it to? Or what if it's not entirely in God's hands?

Anyway, I took their word for it and settled down onto my bed to watch the movie. It was really nice listening to the rain from beneath a warm blanket. I distinctly remember the lovely aroma of the fresh rain, -it smelled damp and earthy. After a few minutes I decided to grab a little snack. I clicked pause, swung my legs over the side of the bed and fumbled for my sandals. My feet hit the floor with a splash. and I thought, a splash? how strange...
I quickly realized that my entire room was flooded. About 2 inches of water was sprawling out from the wall and reaching almost to the door on the opposite side. The damp and earthy smell indeed turned out to the be the rain but in fact it was much closer than I had thought. The lake on the floor was spreading and had already soaked a few items that were in its path. I called to Yolanda and Rodolfo and the came to help me move my things outside. I guess there must have been some distress in my voice because the little 6-year-old Miriam kept saying, "Graciela, don't be so afraid, don't let it scare you it's just water!"

I told her of course I wasn't afraid... It was just a little surprising how quickly the water was coming in. We moved my bed out of the room and the wall where the water was leaking in looked like those peaceful Japanese fountains that people put in their homes. The water poured steadily and silently down the wall like a slick pain of glass. Lower on the wall there was water pouring out, not quite so gracefully. It was flowing through none other than and electrical socket...
Unlike peanut butter and jelly, water and electricity don't go well together and I began to feel nervous about the spreading puddle on the floor. We quickly moved everything off the floor and got most of my belongings out of the room. We moved my bed into the family's room where I would pass the night sleeping with Yolanda, Rodolfo, their six year-old daughter and their 5 month-old baby. It was a cozy arrangement to say the least and the little girl has been sick with fever and a bad cough for the past few days and spent half of the night suppressing coughing fits.
I was very grateful for their help and offering me to sleep in their room. When I awoke this morning the sky was still gray but at least the rain had stopped. Yolanda and Rodolfo had swept most of the water out of my room and it appeared to have stopped flowing in through the wall. It's still quite damp but I have to say that the floor has never been cleaner! It practically shines! So I think I will start moving back in here little by little and hope that the rain stops for good.

The wall, where all the water seems to be seeping in..

I spoke to Peace Corps and they are adamant about me looking for another house... This is bad news because I am very happy living with this family and I know they would be very sad to see me leave. I agree that it would be better to live somewhere a little dryer and with less risk of natural disaster but I know it will be difficult for my family to understand that I am moving out of necessity and that it has nothing to do with them...
Anyway, we shall see how it all turns out.

So it has been some time since the last time I wrote but in my defense I have been VERY busy. I have been working to plan this little event we like to call, "Día de Carrera" or Career Day. If my Peace Corps experience leaves me with nothing else, at least I could be a professional wedding planner or something. Planning this Career Day is unlike anything I have done before and I am very lucky to have a number of very wonderful people helping me out.

The date is set for October 16, 2010 and the event will be held here in Estancia de la Virgen. I have 41 students from my 3rd-year Básico classes that will attending from all four of the schools I work at. We have invited representatives from every career in which the kids have expressed interest and a few others. So far we have only 9 professionals confirmed and only 2 and a half weeks to C-Day... Yikes! I am trying to stay optimistic, and calm, and organized, and focused, and productive, and CALM.

If all goes as planned (ha) then 41 kids who are just on the brink of graduation will have the chance to meet with (20ish) professionals from Guatemala. I have spent the last 2 months working with the kids, talking about making decisions about their futures, doing mock-interviews, and writing résumes.

A few weeks ago we talked about the pros and cons Life Plan Nº 1: Going to work in the US versus Life Plan Nº 2: Continue studying in Guatemala and pursue a career. Of course I was trying to make them see that continuing with their studies was a better choice but I learned that actually the cost of hiring someone to take you America is much greater than the cost of public education. To hire someone to take you to the US would cost about 40,000Q or $5,000. That amount of money could pay for a kid to complete diversificado (highschool) and a public University program with money to spare! But one factor to consider is the opportunity cost of a kid who is studying rather than working in the field and earning money for the family...

The mock-interviews were fantastic. We talked about what a good interview would look like and what a bad one would entail. I also gave them a list of typical interview questions and discussed some good answers and then some not so good answers... I had them pair off and present two interviews to the class; one good and one bad, using the common questions I had given them. They did really well with the activity and especially had fun with the bad interviews. One of my favorite "bad" answers was to the question, "Give an example of when you worked well in a team." to this the non-professional interviewee slouched in his chair, and while playing with his cell phone he answered, "Well one time I wanted to steal this really nice car and so I asked my friends to keep a look out for me and we worked really well as a team because we had to, because it's really hard to steal a car alone." It was hilarious... and the same pair went on to present one of the best professional interviews of all the groups. The interviewee entered with a zip-up lunch box, pretending it was his briefcase and was so polite and professional that I truly believed that he deserved the job.

So anyway... Career Day. Not only will these kids have a great opportunity to make professional contacts but it will also bring two side of the socio-economic spectrum together. Just as in the US there tends to be a resentment on both sides... Some people in the city think people in the campo are uneducated or ignorant. Likewise, people in the campo see the city folk as stuck up, thinking that they are better than everyone and giving little thought or care to the campesinos. This is why this day is so important. We have professionals coming from humble beginnings as well as some coming from a more comfortable upbringing. This sends a good message to the kids by showing them that their are professional who grew up just as they did and they're are also professionals are wealthy, and who still care for them. Those who attend the event will attend not out of pity nor arrogance, but out of a real respect and desire to support there fellow Guatemalans. Those who trek the bumpy mountain road out to Estancia will meet not just campesinos, but a group of bright, enthusiastic, and extremely respectful young people who would be a great asset to Guatemala's growing sea of professionals.

I have gotten a lot of positive feedback from those who have confirmed their attendance and while I am a little stressed with the planning of everything, I have a good feeling that it will be a good day for all involved. For now, I must get back to typing up the 41 résumes in Spanish as the kids don't have computers. It has been a bit challenging trying to classify their "work experience" as many of them began working in the fields at the age of 4 or 5... and as for "Job references," the only "boss" most of them have ever had is their parents... Anyway, it will all look good on paper in that sexy 12point font and professional format. It doesn't really matter what it says, as long as it looks good, right?

In all seriousness, these kids have a lot to be proud of and a work ethic like nothing you have ever seen. If these kids can break into Academia and the professional world, I'd say "watch out American kids!" -because these young people have not been touched by the laziness and apathy affecting so many youth in America and other developed countries. They have a desire to learn and to work hard... all they need is a little boost.

Some Videos

Today I awoke to a bit of a commotion outside my door. I heard Yolanda and her sisters bustling about, clattering dishes, and rearranging furniture. It turned out they were preparing to host a breakfast and were moving tables and chairs outside to the patio and busily cooking tamales, tortillas, and cafe. I was pleasantly greeted by the tantalizing smells as I got out of bed and collected my toiletries before heading off to the bathroom. I opened my bedroom door, bleary-eyed and crusty faced, to a long table of Guatemalan men enjoying their breakfast... It turned out that the breakfast was to be for the 8-10 men in charge of the Catholic Church here in Estancia de la Virgen. I felt self-conscious about my appearance and offered them a quick, "Buenos Días" before shuffling off to the bathroom... Before I could hurry away, I noticed that fluttering just over their heads, was none other than a rainbow of my assorted underwear. I probably had washed nearly every pair I own just yesterday and now they were hanging on the patio looking like an adornment to this very Catholic breakfast. Oops.
In my defense, I had NO idea these men were coming for breakfast, AND my family did nothing to warn me... They could have at least suggested I remove the underwear flag from the patio! By the time I noticed the panties on display, there was nothing I could do. Taking them down would mean disrupting their manly church business and also would draw more attention to them. -So I hung my head and went to the bathroom. I imagined their eyes following me in disgrace, thinking: "Graciela the Godless Gringa. Hanging her panties for the world to see.."

Other than that slight embarrassment, it has been a great week. I have been working a lot trying to get the Tercero kids prepared for Career Day. Also I have been giving dance classes at all of my schools and they have been going really well. When I first got to site, I thought about giving dance classes and I dreamed of stumbling upon a small studio space where kids could from all around and I would teach them jazz, ballet, hip hop, etc... WAKE UP. That didn't happen. So instead I lug around 3 small portable speakers and my iPod to each school and turn a small dusty classroom into a dance studio. It works just fine and the kids seem to really be enjoying it. One school asked that I teach the kids a dance that they can perform on Independence Day, September 15. We have had only 2 weeks to prepare and not many rehearsals but I think all in all it had turned out really well. I split the school into two groups by age and taught them each a different dance. I am really amazed at the progress they have made since the beginning. I had to start at the very basics of rhythm, and counting the beats, how commonly songs have four/ four time but some have three and this is called a waltz. I spent the first few classes constantly counting for each step, " One two three four five and six and seven eight." Until finally I can tell that most of them are counting in their heads and able to keep time. It's remarkable how quickly they have picked it up having very little experience with this type of dance and I am so glad that are able to enjoy an activity that I have loved for so long.

Here are some videos and photos! I have the opportunity right now to use a really fast internet connection and so I will upload all I can right now...

Las Señoritas from Chi Don Juan riding up the road in the Independence Day parade.

The girls from the primary school in the paradr to Chi Don Juan.


My básico students from Chi Don Juan.


The Parade

Our Dance Group "2" the older kids from the school just after a great performance.



Group 1 Dancers from Chi Don Juan.

Unfortunately I didn't get a video from the actualy performance because I had to work the music but these are of the rehearsal in the morning which were very good! The last is from a funny skit the boys from Estancia did which was a mock "Miss Universe Pageant." They dressed as women with masks and some very provacative false breasts... Too big to put on here. See the video on YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ei9slIdNmI

Enjoy!

The Ritual of Communication

There is so much to love about Guatemala. I am fascinated by the rich culture here and find myself basking in the glow of even some not so graceful cultural experiences. PC does it's best to provide us with cultural training but the reality is that sometimes you have to live it to learn it...
As in every country there is a great deal of ritual in a greeting. In the US it's a handshake upon first introduction, in Spain, a kiss on each cheek, in Morocco, a kiss on one cheek and two on the other. Here in Guatemala greetings still seem to allude me because they differ so much depending on what part of the country you find yourself. In the city, they often do a kiss on one cheek. In the pueblos, maybe a kiss on the cheek, maybe a handshake. In the campo, maybe a cheek kiss, maybe a handshake, or maybe just a pat on the shoulder. One can never tell. Upon my arrival here in Estancia de la Virgen I still had not perfected my greeting detection. I was introduced to some indigenous women in the community and stupidly went in for the cheek kiss which apparently wasn't welcomed because the woman discreetly pushed me away to arms length, and gave me a meager pat on the shoulder. I was quite embarrassed as this woman probably thought me to be some sort of wanton American with promiscuous greetings... While I learned a great deal from that first day, I still have not perfected my introductions and find myself feeling a bit anxious at the prospect of meeting new people due to previous awkward encounters. Maybe in 2 years I will have it down, but by that time I will be returning to the US and Guatemalan greetings will be null.

Verbal communication is a fantastic procedure here in Guatemala. While Americans tend to be very direct and to the point, Guatemalans tend to maintain ritual and respect in every verbal interaction. A greeting which in the US would take about 10 seconds:
"Hi. How are you?"
"Fine. And you?"
"Great. Good seeing you."
"Yeah. Take care."
...And done.

This same introduction can take anywhere from 5-30 minutes here in Guatemala. Observe:
"Good day."
"Good day. How are you?"
"I am good. I am here. How are you?"
"I am good. I am here also. So, here you are."
"Yes. Here I am. Thank God above that I am here."
"Yes thank God above that you are here, and I am here."
"So how have you been?"
"Thank God, I have been very well."
"Oh I'm so glad. I am so happy that you are well."
"What are you doing now?"
"Right now I am here, just passing by."
"Oh how wonderful. I'm so glad you are passing by."
"Sí pués (Yes well...)"
"Sí pués Yes well...)"
"Well, I must get going now."
"Ok. We'll see each other soon."
"Yes. Take care of yourself"
"Yes and I hope all goes well with you."
"Adios."
"Adios."

.............and FINALLY done.

I have a great deal of respect for this ritual of communication. It's just that I am not accustomed to it, and sometimes when I stop for a quick hello with someone, I feel like I am being rude and rushing the conversation along.

Another interesting things about communication here is that what someone says and what they mean can be completely different... I suppose this happens in the US as well but here in Guatemala it is a new language and a new experience for me. Sometimes the answer someone gives you seems very vague and I am left wanting more of a direct answer.
I might say, "So, will you be coming to the meeting tomorrow?"
and someone will reply, "If God wants, I will be there."
And I am left thinking hmmm.... Well yes, I do hope God wants you to come but also perhaps you could try to make it happen. I don't know, maybe you could pull some strings, make sure you have no other plans at that time, and just walk out the door, and head to the meeting. And I mean if God strikes you down with a bolt of lightening then I guess you were right, and clearly He didn't want you to come, so I guess I'll see you next week... If God wants.

It took me a while to learn this one:
"So do you think you will come to meeting tomorrow?"
And the person says, "I will do everything that I possibly can to come to the meeting tomorrow."
What this statement actually means is: "I won't be able to make."

Living with a family here has helped me better understand communication here through observation and blunders...
When leaving the house, they almost always say, "Right now, I return."
And I think: I'm sorry but I don't actually believe you because right now you are leaving, and so how can you possibly return right now... unless you decide actually not to leave.

"Right now, I return," actually means that person will not be back for anywhere from 15 minutes to a few hours.
Once, before I had grasped the significance of this phrase, I was home washing clothes when Yolanda left and said, "Right now, I return," and just after she left, 2 women came to the house looking for her. I told them, "Oh she left, but you might as well wait for here because she's coming right back."
Those poor women sat and waited for 2 hours before Yolanda finally came back and I felt like an idiot for telling them to wait...

A common phrase that strikes annoyance into the hearts of Guatemalans and Gringos a like is, "Fijese que..."
This phrase, while loathed by many is widely used by everyone. You only hate this phrase when someone says it to you but you will not hesitate to turn around and use it on someone else. "Fijese que..." is ALWAYS followed by an excuse. Fijese que... school is canceled due to an emergency fútbol tournament. Fijese que... I won't make it tonight due to gal bladder surgery. Fijese que... my homework was eaten by my neighbor's goat, etc. The point is that no one wants to hear, "Fijese que..." but when you can't come through on something and you need to tell someone your excuse, "Fijese que.." is your lone companion.

One day, which will forever be known as "Fijese Que" Day, I was served up 3 servings of "fijese que.." from 3 different people. This phrase has taught me to always be flexible. I honestly don't really mind it when plans change... It make life more spontaneous.

One thing that I have yet to get used to is the, "Hora Chapina." ("Chapina" meaning all things Guatemalan). This phrase refers to the irrelevance of time and punctuality here in Guatemala. I won't admit to being the most punctual person, but growing up in a society run by alarms, bells, watches, and clocks, I find it difficult to adapt to the loose concept of time here. Usually if someone tells you, "I'll be there at 9am," It means they will actually be there at 10-10:30am. During counterpart day at the Peace Corps office, PC addressed this with our counterparts and told them that we will expect them to be prompt. So now I have a counterpart that is very inconsistent... One day he shows up an hour late, the next he's right on time. This makes it difficult because at least if he were always 1 hour late, I could account for that and take my time... The one day I did this, he was coming to pick me up to present me to one of my schools and since he had always been late before I took my time getting ready. On this day, he decided to try to appease the American and showed up right on time. He even apologized for showing up 2 minutes after 10am, which was the agreed upon time. I was caught completely off guard, still drinking my coffee and lazily reading a book thinking I had all the time in the world.

Cutting the cake... this cake was the product of a 1-hour long, indirect conversation with some kids. They started off by asking me for a frosting recipe and after an hour, had me agreeing to help them bake 6 cakes.

Who knows what will become of me by the time I return to the US... I think if I adopt too much of this culture to be my own, I will by hastily rejected by my fellow Americans. The hustle and bustle of life in the US just doesn't put up with tardiness, and ornately indirect conversations. I guess I will do my best to enjoy the definitive differences in life and tradition, keeping in mind cultural relativity...

Memoirs of a Memory

Do you ever have those days when your senses seem to be heightened? Perhaps all your senses, or maybe just one... Today, I seemed to have a heightened sense of smell. They say that smell is most-closely linked to memories and this couldn't have been more true today. I found myself getting a whiff of distant memories which I had not recalled in years.


I waited at the corner for a bus to take me up the mountain to one of my schools. I had never taken this bus before and when I climbed aboard I was struck be the distinct scent. Suddenly I was recalling memories of my grandfathers boat on lake Mary in Minnesota. We would beg him to take the boat out... -maybe the first run of the season. We would race down to the dock and find the boat tucked up under the white canopy and wait impatiently as he lowered her down into the water. As soon as there was space for us, we would crawl into the boat under the canopy and crouch down as swallows nesting in the canopy's corners, swooped at our heads. Maybe we would spend a few minutes brushing away the cobwebs, while grandpa fiddled with the motor. This was the exact scent that the bus had... Mildew, cobwebs, old fishing bait, and motor oil. Perhaps this sounds unappetizing but I was glad to have this recollection stirred up in my mind. I was suddenly awash with so many happy memories and sitting with my cousins, aunts, uncles, and grandparents, flying over the lake with a poor soul on an inner tube (or surfboard) in tow behind us. I relived these moments, the rest of the bus ride and got off the bus with a smile on my face, heading to my next school to spend the afternoon.


Not long after the bus to Memoryville, I had a similar experience while at the school that afternoon. Due to my religious intake of water, I find myself often in need of a restroom which is almost always an adventure here in these parts of Guatemala. This was the first time I sought to use the bathroom at this particular school... I asked the Director for the key and she obligingly pointed the way to the lavatories. I was optimistic because at least this was an actual bathroom with a door and even a key which meant that it probably even had a toilet and not just a hole in the ground. The key gave me some trouble in the lock, and when the door finally gave way I was slapped in the face with yet another childhood memory. When my brother and I were growing up, we were fortunate to have had many pets... For many years we had a sweetly gregarious rabbit named Blue Bell. She would hop around our basement chewing nearly anything she get her mouth around; making Swiss cheese out of fallen raincoats and amputees out of several of my Barbies.
Anyway, when I walked into this dark and musty bathroom, I was suddenly reminded of Blue Bell and the unhappy chore of changing her litter box. This bathroom could have been a giant litter box... It was made of cement, damp, and smelled a mix of bad and good, with the flowery, artificial odor of air fresheners. I stood in the bathroom a moment and recalled my Mom reminding us to change Blue Bell's litter box and my brother and I always putting it off... This made it most unpleasant when we finally did change it, as it was badly in need of cleaning by that point. So there I was in this bathroom in Guatemala, holding my breath as I dumped the litter pan in the garbage, kicking myself for waiting so long to clean it, and promising Blue Bell that it wouldn't happen again. While this was not the most pleasant of aromas, it did launch me back into some very fond memories. -Such as sitting on the couch with my Mom, brother, and Big Grace, watching Macgyver with Blue Bell on our laps, feeding her popcorn. The happy memories from my childhood of the Blue Bell Era which I had filed away, were brought back to mind. Perhaps this is made more significant by the fact that these fond memories were made in a house that will no longer be home to our family... The house was sold just last week and while it didn't seem to phase me at first, this recollection of childhood memories made me realize that it was a special place. I am grateful for the creative walls that surrounded me while growing up and hope that house can be a home once again to yet another family.


So this had little to do with Guatemala... or maybe it is what Guatemala is to me. Here will be my home for the next two years. And so I suppose it's good that I am vividly reminded of my fondest memories of family and friends by things here in Guatemala. I look forward to the memories I will make here, and to the future when I might recall them from the next chapter of my life.

Plans and Projects

I apologize for time lapse since my last entry and can only assure you all that I will do my best to keep up with writing. Things have been very busy which is a good thing. I have been bombarded with ideas, many born in my own mind, and I was finding it difficult to figure out just where to start. Finally I feel like I have developed somewhat of a plan, and I have learned to manage my time more wisely.

Tercero kids, "crossing the river of lava" -A team-building game I learned at Scottie's Place.

Since I have only 2 months before the end of the school year, I have had to prioritize... While I will be working with all three grades in the schools, I have decided to give the majority of my attention to the Tercero kids (3rd years) because they will graduating in October. My first weeks in the schools, I had individual interviews with each student so I could get to know them a little better. I had them fill out an index card with their name, age, grade, parents name, and if they live with their parents. This way, I was able to see what kind of background these kids come from without prying... I found out which kids have parents in the US and which kids have no parents. In the interviews I asked them what they like to do in their free time, what their favorite school subject is, and if they have a career in mind that they would like to pursue. Some of the kids had a hard time understanding my question about what they like to do in their free time... "Sorry 'Seño', what do you mean in free time?" they would say.
"Well when you aren't in school, or helping out around the house... What do you like to do? Read? Spend time with friends? Play?" I asked naively.
"Seño, when I am not in school I am working and that's it," they replied.
-And I continued on to the next question pretending to be unaffected by their response.

Girls fútbol players, Tiox Ya'

When asked about a career they might like to pursue, some of them just looked at me... One boy told me that his parents had told him from the beginning that he can only study until Tercero (equivalent to 8th grade in the US) and then he would have to go to work in the fields to support his family. When talking about careers, many of the students said they wanted to continue studying and become "professionals" but when I asked, "Professional what?" Most of them had no idea... Some students had a career in mind but no clue how to pursue it. Few kids had a set plan for how they wanted to succeed in life. The most common response to the question, "How do you plan to achieve your education/career goals," was, "Work hard, keep studying, and support from my parents."

Boys fútbol players from Tiox Ya'

Some boys from Chi Don Juan dressed as clowns for an activity at the primary school.

While all of these factors would help a student achieve his or her goals, it's not exactly a specific plan for the future. So with all the information I collected I decided perhaps it would be a good idea to host a career day for all the Tercero kids. Inspired by another PCV who did something similar, I'm in the initial planning phase right now and looking for a professionals to represent each career that are of interest to the kids. If all goes as planned, Peace Corps will help transport these professionals way out here to Estancia de la Virgen where we will have a full day with all the kids of Tercero Básico from the 4 schools. Each professional can talk about how they became successful in their career, what schools are available, how many years of study are required, how much it costs, how to look for scholarships, etc. Also the kids will each have a formal "mock" interview with someone from their choice career. This way, they will be making connections with real professionals from Guatemala who can serve as role-models, and even future contacts for these young people if they choose to continue their studies.
In the next few weeks I will work to prepare the kids for Career Day. I have already begun talking about the basics, and I have pointed out to them that if they chose to live the life of a campesino (farm worker) then this too, is a noble and fulfilling life. The truth is that not a single one of them told me that they wanted to be campesinos the rest of their lives, although I know many of them think that this will be their inevitable fate. I told them that if they have an inkling to pursue higher education, or a career, that they should not put it out the realm of possibility. My intention is simply to give them all the information they need to know... then it is in their hands, to talk to their families, work hard, get good grades, look for scholarships, etc.
The typical life plan here in the campo is to graduate Tercero, work in the fields, save enough money to hire a "coyote" to take you to the US, work like a slave for a few years in the jobs that no Americans want, send the money home to your family to build you a decent house, return home to your kids who have spent the last 5 years without you, live in your nice house back at square one with no more money than before...
I would really like to try to offer an alternative life plan to these kids. I want to point out that if the are able and willing to sacrifice a child's labor in the fields for just a few years, then that child could continue studying and find a job that would pay a much better wage to help support the family. I would like to see kids dreaming of becoming professionals in their own country where they could have a life-long, stable job and support their own country's economy. This is the only way for sustainable development... Ideally, these young people will leave and pursue an education and career, use their resources to support their family and community, then future youth from that community will follow by example eventually helping pull the community out of poverty.
IDEALISTIC. I know. But little by little, even if only a handful of kids make it... It's still something.
So, here goes. We'll see how things turn out.

These little girls from the primary school asked for my help baking some cakes.

Cake Bakers

Books!

We need books.
I recently had interviews with each one of my students. I asked them what they like to do in their free time. Most of them replied, "I like to read..."
I asked, "What do you like to read?"
They said, "Well I like legends, or stories, but we don't really have books... So mostly I read old news papers or something."
There are no books. There is no library. The schools that have textbooks are decades out of date. Somehow, miraculously these kid still want to read and they like to read!
So I would like to begin with a reading group... I would like to be able to provide the kids with books (or at least a copy of the book) so that they may take notes and highlite as they wish. We'll meet once a week and talk about what we've read.

This photo comes from another rural school elsewhere in Guatemala where books were donated...

I also want to start a reading initiative in which middle school kids will go to the elementary school and read to the younger children once a week. I think this would be really beneficial because most of these children don't have parents at home that are able to read to them.
For this, I need books. I have posted a Wish List to amazon.com with a few books I would really like to get for these kids. I also warmly welcome any oher book donations (preferrably in Spanish). Amazon offers reat prices on used books. I have included my mailing address on the wish list but if you prefer to have the books shipped to you, then to me, I have no preference.
Some book sugestions:
Any of the classics
Books for Middle Age kids
Dr. Seus
Any kids books
Just search amazon for any book you have in mind and specify, "in spanish"
Thay have nearly everything!

This one too...

Kids here love to read... I hope to feed their desire for reading and love of books and use this to eventually help start a community library. This will take a lot of planning and work but maybe it can get done in the next 2 years.

Anyway, thank you for your help and support!

Again, my new mailing address is:

Grace Hansen PCV
Apartado 33
Chimaltenango,
Chimaltenango, Guatemala
4001 Centro América

The link to the wish list:
http://amzn.com/w/342YD7I3HPHXQ

Swearing-in and First Week in Site

The San Bortolo Group and our Families

Ambassador

Just before the ceremony

Here I am, my first week in site... Life is busy yet tranquil, slow yet exhausting, new yet familiar. Life is good. Before I go into things here at site, I would like to reflect a bit on the swearing-in ceremony last Friday. It was a special day. I think Peace Corps does a good job of matching a meaningful ceremony with the magnitude it represents. For the 47 of us, this was it... The moment you anticipate from the time you click, "submit" on your online application. The moment you wait still for, after receiving your nomination. Then just when you think you're there, you must wait yet again to receive your invitation. Then finally you arrive... but wait! Three months of training! So wait yet again... Until now. Last Friday marked the official moment of, "Here I am." It was the symbolic representation of our collective emotion and pride... We all knew what was to come. We have all seen our sites, visited our schools yet most of us still have no idea what to expect.

The ladies of San Bartolo

When I arrived at site, I could almost feel the collective sigh of all 47 of us, as we let our last suitcase fall to the floor... "Here we are," we all thought. "All alone... Now what?"

My new room

If I had sat down to write this on my first day here, it may not have been such a pleasant read. I think as a rule of thumb, the first day is the hardest. I qualify this with the accounts I received from a few friends as well. I sort of wonder if Peace Corps sets it up this way, as one final test... They say to our counterparts, "Please make sure that on the first day, NOTHING goes as planned." More likely, it is just the anticipation we have built up over the last few months finally coming to a head. The first day is when you realize how small you are... When your alter your definition of progress as one drop added to a bucket of water, to progress as one drop added to the entire ocean!
My new best friend

Now that I sit here, nearly at the end of the week I feel good. I am adapting to life here. I appreciate the beauty and realness of doing everything by hand. I know there will be days when I miss microwaves, and washer machines but I truly am happy to be without them right now.
I found a bike which I have been riding to my schools for the past 2 days. I get a lot of strange looks because it's not everyday that you see a gringa on a bicycle. Also the roads here are not exactly conducive to a relaxing journey. So far I have nearly crashed at least once each day. I think the probability of me actually crashing is quite high... I just hope it won't be too bad. The three things I am most likely to crash into are:
1. a fence
2. a cow
3. a tree/shrub.
None of these things offer a very soft landing and so I am sure to wear my helmet all the time. I don't know if I will ever make the entire trip without getting off the bike and walking. The road is just so rugged, and quickly changes from steep downhill to extreme uphill. Perhaps there are mountain bikes out there that can handle this terrain but the bike I found cost about $120 so I can't complain.
Today I went to an anniversary party for one of the elementary schools. It was really impressive to learn about the history of this school. They were celebrating 40 something years, and told of how when the school was first built there were no roads leading to the village. When the school was brand new, it was reduced to rubble by the horrific earthquake of the 1970's. They rebuilt the school, and here it stands today, proud as ever. It was an honor to be invited to such a special event. I left soon after lunch and rode off on my bike as the sounds of the marimba band trailed off behind me.

Some little girls at the school's aniversary party

The ride home was even more grueling than they day before... -Perhaps because today was blistering hot. I had to get off my bike numerous times and rest. It seems pitiful because the ride is only 2km! But it's unlike any 2km bike ride I have ever experienced. I am certain that after two years of riding my bike, I will be fully prepared to take on the tour d' france. When I finally got back to the house, I looked as if I had just swam home... I was soaked with sweat, and had a tomato-red face. Everyone who greeted me looked at me the same way, as if to say, "why do this to yourself?" But I am determined... And honestly, I like riding my bike. It just will take some time to get into shape.

I spent the afternoon doing some chores. I did laundry and cleaned the bathroom. I would like you to take a moment and think about both of these tasks. Think well about how long it takes you to complete them. You could probably throw your clothes in the machine and clean the bathroom in the meantime... Well of course things are different here, and that is to be expected. It took me about 3 hours to do my laundry and about an hour to do the bathroom. I am not complaining here... only trying to paint an accurate portrait of what my day was like. I was so exhausted by 5pm I could have gone to bed right then. I slumped into the hammock to relax before getting up to cook dinner. In those few moments I sat on the patio, taking in the view; the mountains, the setting sun, and I acknowledged my weary body and realized that I felt good! I had a very fulfilling day, and yet I only got a few things done.
I have never been so domestic in all my life. When I get home from school, I take shower, change clothes, and put on an apron. I wear an apron whenever I am in the house! I have never even owned an apron and now I am the proud owner of 2. I wear it, not because it's fashionable, but rather because it's so darn useful! Both my aprons were given to me as gifts, and while I did not think I would use them at first, I now wonder how one could live without. Where else do you put clothes pins when hanging laundry on the line? Where to put your phone while washing in the pila? Need a napkin? No problem! Aprons do it all!

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Just as I was writing this in the flickering candlelight of my bedroom, I noticed a strange dark spot on the ceiling. It looked like a spot where the paint might be peeling and I thought, "that's strange, I don't remember seeing that before." So I grabbed my headlamp to investigate. When I looked up, there to my great horror was... a SCORPION!
Now, usually I am not unrealistically afraid of creepy crawly things but scorpions are the at the top of my list of scary things. I sort of panicked... I didn't know what to do. What is a scorpion anyway? Can you crush it? Is it a bug? Or is it more like a devil crab with an impenetrable shell? I imagined it to be the latter, and called one of my Peace Corps friends to see if she had any advice. "Kill it with a broom," she said. So I grabbed my old broom, took a deep breath and swept it off the ceiling. Now I don't know about you, but the image I had of scorpions consisted of them moseying along in the desert waiting to murder some unsuspecting victim... Well once I swept this guy to the floor he took off full speed! It caught my off guard how quickly he ran and hid... I swept him out from under his hiding place, and hit him with the broom but he scurried away unscathed. He ran across an open spot on the floor and I knew I had to act quickly... the broom didn't work the first time so I closed my eyes and gave a quick stomp with my flip flop. That did the trick... but he was a big guy, and his scorpion goo went all over. Gross. I decided it would be better to deal with cleaning it up in the morning.
As of now I am trying to calm down and convince myself that that was the only one...
-that there are not more lurking in the corner behind my bed. Before tucking myself in I sent out a little prayer that went like this, "Dear scorpion brothers (and sisters), I'm sorry for killing your comrade. Please don't come and seek vengeance on me. Goodnight."

Killer Scorpion...

PLEASE NOTE!
I am changing my address to a mailbox that is a bit closer to my site. I can still receive mail at the old address, so if you sent something, no worries. I should be able to receive mail faster, and with less risk of theft with this new box.

Grace Hansen/ PCV
Apartado 33
Chimaltenango, Chimaltenango
Guatemala, Centroamérica